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The DNA of hooks
The Patridge Catalogue through the years
Salmon & Steelhead
Fly Tying Tutorial's
Hare’s Ear Snatcher Allan Liddle
Spey Cascade - March Tutorial - Allan Liddle
February Tutorial Fiddich Fancy - by Allan Liddle
January Age Old Classic The Zulu
November Tutorial Cow Dung Hopper by Allan Liddle
December River Cow Dung And Ivor’s Olive by Allan Liddle
October Fly Tying Tutorial - Turks Tarantula by Allan Liddle
August Tutorial Black & Pearly Snatcher by Allan Liddle
September Fly Tying Tutorial 'The Purple Hog' by Allan Liddle
July Tutorial Pheasant Tail Nymph by Allan Liddle
June Tutorial - Personalised Peter Ross by Allan Liddle
May Fly Tying Tutorial: Golden Ordie by Allan Liddle
April Tutorial - Green Tail Kate McLaren Muddler
March Tutorial - Claret Bumble
February's Tutorial - The Blue Zulu by Allan Liddle
January Tutorial - 'Squirmin' Along the Bottom by Allan Liddle
December 2015 The Fake Quill Spider by Allan Liddle
November 2015 Fly Tying Tutorial - Bibio Emerger by Allan Liddle
October 2015 - CDC Blue Wing Olive by Allan Liddle
August 2015 Fly Tying Tutorial: Lough Leane Hopper by Allan Liddle
April 2015 - Tutorial Heather Beetle by Allan Liddle
July 2015 Red Butt Green Peter Muddler by Allan Liddle
June 2015 Fly Tying Tutorial: Silver Muddler by Allan Liddle
May 2015 Fly Tying Tutorial: The Deadly 'Dirty Duster' by Allan Liddle
March 2015 Tutorial Deer Hair Emerger by Allan Liddle
February 2015 Fly Tying Tutorial: March Brown Jingler by Allan Liddle
January 2015 - Tutorial Loch Ordie by Allan Liddle
December 2014 Mayfly Emerger by Allan Liddle
November 2014 - Wee Black Nymph by Allan Liddle
October 2014 Olive Hedgehog by Allan Liddle
September 2014 Detached Daddy by Allan Liddle
July 2014 Tutorial Heatherfly Hopper by Allan Liddle
Snowshoe (Shipmans) Buzzer
An Army of Soldier Beetles
Hints & Tips
You can leave your hat on...
Thoughts about Dabblers
Slimline Tying for Predator
Outwit the Fish!
Gnats on a String
8 Top Tying Tips
Fly of the Month
December Fly of the Month - The Clouser Minnow
A few of my favourite fly fishing books by Stevie Munn
Materials needed, Partridge 15BNx Klinkhamer Extreme hook, Peacock herl, thread, fly-rite dubbing, antron yarn, varnish.
Set hook in vice and attach thread with a few wraps and snip off waste. For illustration purposes the fly is tied on the biggest hook size available, the method of tying does not change with smaller and even much smaller hooks.
Tie in antron yarn, make sure it is on top of the hook
Snip off the excess antron yarn at an angle
Apply dubbing to the thread by the wing post. I prefer to dub from wing to the hook bend on most of my flies. Distribute the dubbing on the thread so it is more at the wing post and lesser and lesser as further you come down the thread. That way you achieve a conical body without much hassle. It takes a little practice to know how much dubbing one needs, but try to use as little as possible.
Form a thin body as described before. Notice that the thread is at the hook bend now
Rib the body by bringing the thread towards the wing in a 45º angle
Tie in the hackle feathers with the underside of the feather showing upwards. Not the natural bend in the feather.
It helps to take off some of the hackle fibres facing the wing.
Tie down feather stem
Bend feather stem back towards the wing and cover with a few tight thread wraps and break off the feather stem.
Tie in three strands of peacock herl
Cover the herls and make sure to end the thread by the wing
Wrap the peacock herl and the thread together to reinforce the brittle peacock herl fibres
Start winding the peacock herl rope behind the wing. This functions like an sort of an anchor point - wind against the wingpost and "pull" material between the anchor point and the wing
Continue past the wing towards the hookeye. Band the hackle feather upwards reinforcing the wingpost. The hookeye is your front "anchor point". Wind the herl / thread rope backwards to the wing and support the wingpost with the Peacock herl - see next image
Wind the herl / thread rope backwards to the wing and support the wingpost with the Peacock herl
Rotate the head of your vise. Make sure to keep tension on the herl/thread "rope"
Rotate the head of your vise until the wing post is horizontal. Not perfect in this shot, but good enough. The herl/thread rope is now behind the wing post.
Wind that rope onto the wing post. Start high on the wing and keep coming down towards the hook.
Separate the herl fibre from the thread and secure with a few thread wraps
Throw on a few wraps with a whip finisher and break off the herl. No scissors needed. Note the groove which will house the hackle in the next steps.
Apply a drop of varnish into the "hackle housing groove"
Detailed view of the wingpost base
Web the thread through the hackle feather
Wind on the hackle feather together with the thread. Try to make this quick enough after you had applied the varnish
Whip finish under the hackle. The hackle tip is still on even not very visible in this shot
You can leave the wing as is or clip it a bit shorter. Pleas note that the wing is helping with slowing down the decent of the fly through the air even more as the hackle. so if you fly drops to hard the wing is too short. The hackle doe not have that much of air resistance. You can compare it to a bicycle wheel which does not pose much of an air resistance either.
Snip off the thread
The finished fly
Hans Van Klinken
March Brown Glingler
Rolled Muddler Variant
Original McPhail MayFly
Spey Style Salmon Fly
Megan Boyd Shrimp
Czech Style Nymph
Polish Pheasant Tail Nymph
Davie's Black Cricket
Llama Dragonfly Nymph
Olive CDC Dun (DryFly)
Gray Ghost Streamer Fly
Sawyer Pheasant Tail Nymph